Pairing on umami

Pairing on umami confronts the most delicate of tastes, that of mushrooms, parmesan or broths, which heightens the bitterness, astringency and alcohol of a wine while stripping its fruit and roundness. Very tannic reds turn metallic against it. A saline note in the dish partly neutralises this effect, which is why generous seasoning helps restore the balance a sommelier seeks when serving umami-rich plates.